Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Smoke and Mirrors


The breeze comes in crispy most days here now in the city of good airs. The sun is a joy and the wind is welcome, especially so this past month when rolling clouds of smoke covered the entire city in a fog and a stink.

The smell woke me up in the middle of the night as it seeped in through the French doors of the balcony off our bedroom. It wouldn't leave and got into every crevice of the apartment and of my nose.

Since it was man made, and affected an entire city to the benefit of just two landowners looking for extra grazing room for their cattle, I had a hard time containing my frustration at a government and a people that seem to passively accept the blatant abuse of the many for the benefit of the few. At least in the US it's slightly less obvious that we're being tooled. Here, two individuals started a fire an hour outside of the city that blazed out of control and disrupted 20 million respiration systems for five days. And people didn't like it but they seemed to take it all in stride. Much like the rampant inflation that blazes on, unthwarted.

On a happier bent, since I wrote you last I visited New York City, played with Redheadphone, and saw some of my favorite people. Maxi played two live shows since I've been back and played one televised show with his band El Tucu y los Paroquianos. He wore over-sized, ladies' vintage sunglasses and kind of resembled my mom, Harlene, while he pogo-ed around on the electric guitar. The show was like a dope gong show episode in Spanish with a mascot in full furry monster suit and horns and a trannie guest commentator.

Max produces a morning show on public TV and they put his band on to promote a big live show played the following day. Seems like the rules here are different than in Hollywood, where I grew up. So I may soon be posting a clip of me playing on Argentine TV with Kasha meowing back up.

I've been going out again finally. I had to, for work, this month, when I got to write a nightlife section for Time Out Buenos Aires and for two English Language media outposts here - one magazine and the site What's Up Buenos Aires, home of Zizek Records that's making waves stateside with cumbia-hop. So I was forced to go out and get involved late night, thank goodness.

I feel much better when I've been running around with a martini glass in hand (or smuggled to go in my purse) until the wee hours. You'd think I'd have grown out of it but even if I don't drink much I can't seem to shake the urge to vampire and see what people are up when they get down. Thankfully, many of the nightspots aren't that original, so one trip does the job. But a couple weekly parties have me hooked so I sneak out of bed at 1am, meet up with a 22 year old girlfriend or two, and explore a bit before getting back under the covers in time to see Max off to work at 7am. It's been like that the past two weeks but now I'm done with the assignments and hopefully I'll be focusing on this next record Max and I are looking to do. Except for Thursdays, the Thursday night party is too good. At least every other week, then.

Len-dog and Harlene are arriving soon and we're heading out to pick them up at the airport. They'll be here almost three weeks and we might make it to Brazil for a few days. They're meeting Max for the first time shortly, which should be interesting.

I'm not worried at all about them liking him, obviously, I'm concerned for his sanity and for the massive unrest that usually occurs in my daily life when those Hymans tag team me with drama. Max has been warned and I have no excuse but to try to keep it together and put some limits on Len-dog's hyperactivity and Harlene's spontaneous, unwelcome, public performances and then we should be at a decent level of bananas, rather than on overdrive.

The hardest thing won't be my nice, funny, neurotic parents, it'll be the fun-house mirror family tends to hold up for you, you know? We bought this beautiful antique mirror and we'll put it up this weekend, which seems fitting. Harlene and Leonard are staying in this amazing apartment down the street. I'll get some photos of them tango-ing, eating steak at a kosher parilla, and diving into the Argentine landscape. Kasha will be happy to get their added attention - unless Len-dog steps on her like he usually tries to.

We had a birthday party for Max and forgot to celebrate our one year of being together. We'll handle that once the dust has settled after these people visit. We can celebrate our survival as a couple then, if all goes according to plan. Dude is an avid Woody Allen fan but he hasn't lived one of his movies, yet. He'll have that pleasure starting tonight I guess.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Summer in Buenos Aires

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The South American summer is coming to an end and I'd like to share some photos and stories with you.
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I'm an illegal alien, but officially I'm a tourist. To maintain tourist status, every three months, I have to leave Argentina and get my passport stamped. Most people in my situation take the ferry to Uruguay for the day and come back in the evening. The trip is an hour each way. Max found a package that included the ferry, in first class, a tour, and lunch for $50 US apiece. So we went to Uruguay for the day, ballers in first class, and skipped the tour to rent bikes and go to the beach.
Colonia, Uruguay:
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Colonia is a pretty town of cobblestones and motor scooters. People are nice and nobody hurries for any reason. Uruguay and Argentina have their beef, like any neighboring countries, but they have a great deal in common. Only difference I've noticed is the Portugese influence felt in Colonia, whereas Buenos Aires has a history of Spaniards, Italians, French, and Brits coming in and adding something to the cultural fabric.
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Argentine Countryside:


Max and I spent time at his friends' country house about an hour from the city. There was a country club and equestrian center.





This gated community exists in the middle of the nowhere, with a poor small town to one side and the highway to the other. Like much of this country, the people with any decent income spend their time and money with each other, far from the riffraff. I met some of the riffraff at the beach a month later.

Pinamar Beach:
Pinamar hats
Dario, aka "El Negro," on the left, is from the town next to the place Max's friends rented for the summer. He was floored that I knew of it and was proud of his town. The guy on the right is Mattius, aka "El Colo," el colorado which is what redheads are called. From his nickname, I gained a new appreciation for the landscape of the state of Colorado and for my new identity here in Argentina, where I get to be colored.
I went to Pinamar with two girlfriends for the weekend. Pinamar is on the Atlantic coast about five hours from Buenos Aires. (More about Pinamar)
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We took an overnight bus and arrived at 5am. We got breakfast in the station and then took a cab to our hostel at the beach. We left our stuff and went down to the water to watch the sunrise. There we met some boys ending their night with beers at the beach.
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I was with Natalia, an Argentine who owns the restaurant on the corner of my block, and Nicole, whom I met at a wine event the week before. She's a sommelier on vacation from NYC. We had a great weekend at the beach riding bikes, getting some sun, and relaxing.
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Before we got on the bus full of beds to head back home, the Pinamar boys cooked up an asado and we partook. It was Nicole's first homemade asado - a big deal here in Argentina - and they pulled out all the stops, which included lots of cuts of meat, bread, and wine and...that's it. Meat and meat and some bread - a meal Nicole and I, as Californians and females, likely have never experienced. Our carnivorous companions, being the gents that they are - even the one 17 year old - made it all lovely.
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Back in San Telmo, we had a going away party for Nicole and the boys squashed into El Colo's SUV and came to Natalia's restaurant for the festivities. Nicole's last name is Heyman. For our last night in Buenos Aires, us H(e)ymans piled in the SUV and danced to cumbia all over town with Natalia, El Colo, El Negro, and the rest of the boys - two of them teenagers.
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Quequen for New Years:
Kash goes to the beach
The best time at the beach this South American summer was with Max and Kasha. We spent New Year's Eve 2008 in Quequen, seven hours southeast of Buenos Aires on Argentina's Atlantic coast. Max's friends rented a beach shack and we joined them for a week. Kasha got to spend some time outside. She even made it to the beach.
La Lou and Eve
La Lou and Max
La Lou at the Beach
Cats aren't big on open spaces so we hung out in the dunes
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the cat's in the bag
Kasha in the Dunes
She had fun but her favorite was the garden at the house, laying in the sun and rolling in the dirt like a good little dog-cat.
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Geronimo is fresh for 2008
New Years Eve was spent with this guy. Like any good NYE celebration, it included barking dogs running around with little boys shooting off firecrackers. There was breakdancing, booze, and a party on the beach. The sleepy town of Quequen woke up and managed to do New Years Eve just right - until the sun came up.
Geronimo wiles out
Geronimo wiling
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NYE fireworks
NYE
Max, pimping
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Max started a cool new job this month producing a morning show on a network TV station. I've been busy writing for two new publications, in addition to my regular job, and we're working on music for a show and recording together. Our sound is acoustic guiar with Argentine percussion and we plan to play shows in California when we visit this summer.

This week I'm headed to New York to play with Redheadphone and meet Manny Jr., new baby in the Bronx. Argentina has turned cool and rainy and everyone is back from their two-month vacations. Fall in Buenos Aires will be nice.
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